COLLEEN TINKER
In 2008 Richard and I experienced one of the most significant gifts God has ever given us (apart from saving us and giving us family): a two-week trip to Israel. Through His unique provision, we were able to do what had been only an impossible dream: see and touch many of the places where Jesus ministered and accomplished our salvation.
We left Redlands on October 28 along with 66 other people, mostly from Trinity Church where we attended, and returned on November 11. Pastor Gary and his wife Elizabeth Inrig led the tour, and we had two brilliant and articulate Jewish guides (except for our three days in Jordan) to give us the geographical and historical backgrounds of the sites we visited.
This week I want to share my memories of visiting Bethlehem. We had just spent three days in Galilee, three days in Jordan, and a day in the Judean desert near the Dead Sea. After we left Masada our busses drove north, bordering the fence between Israel and the Palestinian North Bank, past the region of Jericho, and finally began the ascent into Jerusalem.
The hills, the many olive trees, and the white limestone buildings were stunning. I had never imagined Jerusalem to be so beautiful; my vague mental image of the city had been of primitive buildings in the blazing desert sun with dust settling everywhere. The reality of the many hills and valleys and the higher elevation with the resulting trees and cooler temperatures took me by surprise.
Our first stop was in Bethlehem to visit the Church of the Nativity commissioned in the fourth century A.D. by Helena, the mother of Constantine. Getting to the church, however, was not easy!
Surprises
My first surprise was the proximity of Bethlehem to Jerusalem. Today, with the expansion of Jerusalem, Bethlehem is essentially an outskirt of Jerusalem. Technically, it is three or four miles southwest of Jerusalem—but it is just inside the Palestinian border, and a wall separates the two. We had to leave our Jewish guides outside the wall as we crossed into Palestinian territory, and two Christian guides from Bethlehem came to direct our tour to the spot where Jesus was born.
Inside the church hundreds of people from around the world grouped with their respective tour guides, waiting in line to kiss the silver star on the floor of the shrine that marks what is probably the real spot of Jesus’ birth. The silver, marble, candles, and the glassed-in manger bear little resemblance to the stable where Joseph was the only one who helped Mary give birth to their—and our—Savior.
The reality of Christmas came alive, however, as we sat in the chapel after seeing the shrines built around the historic spots. Gary Inrig recited John 1:1-18: “In the beginning was the Word, and the Word was with God, and the Word was God…”Former Adventist Michael Hicks led us in singing “Hark! The Herald Angels Sing”, and then he sang “O Lord Most Holy” a cappella, the notes reverberating under the vaulted ceiling.
As we left the church to board our busses, the sun was setting as we stood in the historic Manger Square where an annual Christmas Eve service has been a famous attraction for decades. Today the formerly Christian-dominant town of Bethlehem is losing its Christian inhabitants. The city’s population now is about 25% Christian and 75% Muslim.
In consummate irony, the pink light of sunset was filled with the sounds of the Muslims’ call to prayer being broadcast from the minarets of every mosque in the city. We stood inside the nearly two-millennia-old courtyard of the church built to honor the world’s Savior, and the public call to prayer of one of the world’s most significant religions which does not recognize the Lord Jesus as the Living God filled the ears of every person for miles around.
This juxtaposition of belief and unbelief is one of the dominant undercurrents of our entire two weeks in Israel.
This juxtaposition of belief and unbelief is one of the dominant undercurrents of our entire two weeks in Israel. We stood on Mt. Carmel where Elijah egged on the priests of Baal as they prayed for rain before God sent fire and burned not only Elijah’s sacrifice but also his water-drenched altar. We floated on the Sea of Galilee, remembering the One who demonstrated His authority over nature and the laws of physics. We marveled at the very recent archeological finds at Tel Dan in the north of the Israel—the place Jereoboam introduced golden calves into the worship of Yahweh: the city gates dating from the time of King Ahab and an ancient Canaanite gate dating from Mesopotamian times which was built with arches—an archeological feature formerly thought to have originated with Rome.
We stood in front of the pagan shrine to Pan, the god of nature, at Ceasarea Philippi where Jesus declared He would establish His church, and the gates of Hell would not prevail against it. We drank from Harod’s Spring where God reduced Gideon’s army from thousands to a handful of 300 men. We walked to the top of Ein Geadi, an incredibly beautiful series of waterfalls forming an oasis near the Dead Sea, bounded by steep limestone cliffs where David hid from Saul and where he wrote Psalm 57.
We saw the ruins of the first-century Essene Community at Qumran where the Dead Sea scrolls were discovered. We floated in the Dead Sea by the light of a crescent moon, and we spent a day exploring the amazing monoliths at Petra, a Nabatean city built in the late fourth and early third centuries BC in the hills of Jordan in the ancient area of Edom.
He knew we would be here
We spent our last five days in Jerusalem—the ancient and modern city where Muslims dominate the Jews’ most sacred site: the Temple Mount. The Dome of the Rock stands over the place that used to be the site of the Holy of Holies in the temple—and the Holy of Holies was built on top of Mt. Moriah where Abraham offered Isaac.
We walked up the recently excavated southern steps of the Temple Mount where Jesus undoubtedly walked when He was there. I was overcome at the thought of Jesus being there, knowing He was the fulfillment of every ritual and ceremony He observed.
I spoke my thoughts to Richard who replied, “And He also knew that we would be here.”
I spoke my thoughts to Richard who replied, “And He also knew that we would be here.”
The reality of life on earth was condensed in Israel and focused especially in Jerusalem: unbelief and evil are relentless, continually claiming authority that is not legitimate—yet God’s will is certain, and nothing can undo the fact that Jesus defeated the powers of evil at the cross (Colossians 2:14-15). We as born-again believers are witnesses of the victory and finished work of Jesus.
We are part of His church for which He declared ultimate victory from that pagan high place: Ceasarea Philippi. He is our Head and our Life and our King and Lord.
This season as we remember the Bethlehem Baby I see everything in a new way. I can literally picture the hills of Bethlehem where the angels sang to the shepherds. I can see where Jesus worshiped and discoursed with the Pharisees. I can picture the general area where He was crucified and from where He rose from death. I have stood on the Mt. of Olives from where He ascended to heaven and to where He will return when He comes to reign over the nations.
Jesus is real; God’s promises are certain. He keeps His word not because we are worthy or observant but because His word cannot fail. We serve the triune God, the only true God, who established His name in Jerusalem. We worship the Lord Jesus who fulfilled all that was foreshadowed about Him in the Law and the Prophets. We are made alive by the Holy Spirit who testifies with our spirits that we are children of God (Romans 8:15-16).
For to us a child is born, to us a son is given, and the government will be on his shoulders. And he will be called Wonderful Counselor, Mighty God, Everlasting Father, Prince of Peace. Of the increase of his government and peace there will be no end. He will reign on David’s throne and over his kingdom, establishing and upholding it with justice and righteousness from that time on and forever. The zeal of the Lord Almighty will accomplish this (Isaiah 9:6-7). †
A complete daily journal of this trip to Israel and Jordan is available HERE.
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